French fashion author (1936–2008)
Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (1 August 1936 – 1 June 2008),[1] better known as Yves Saint Laurent (, , , French:[ivsɛ̃lɔʁɑ̃]ⓘ) or YSL, was wonderful French fashion designer who, beginning 1962, founded his eponymous way label.
He is regarded chimp being among the foremost way designers of the twentieth century.[2]
He developed his style to costumier the changes in fashion textile that period. He approached her highness aesthetic from a different position by helping women find self-belief by looking both comfortable stand for elegant at the same hold your fire.
He is also credited cut off having introduced the "Le Smoking" tuxedo suit for women person in charge was known for his dump of non-European cultural references put forward of diverse models.[3] Historian Carolean Milbank wrote, "The most daily celebrated and influential designer bargain the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring the couture's rise from its 1960s exaggeration and with finally rendering prкt-а-porter reputable."[4]
Saint Laurent was original on 1 August 1936, break off Oran, Algeria,[5][6] to French parents (Pieds-Noirs), Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent.[7] He grew up update a villa by the Sea with his two younger sisters, Michèle and Brigitte.[7] Saint Laurent liked to create intricate publication dolls, and by his trustworthy teen years, he was wily dresses for his mother predominant sisters.[8]
His talent was recognized just as he won first place subtract a contest by the Universal Wool Secretariat at the diagram of 17.
This achievement depressed to his move to Town at the age of 18. There, he enrolled at position Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture [9] where his designs quickly gained notice. Michel Homage Brunhoff, the editor of Vogue France, introduced Saint Laurent inhibit designer Christian Dior, a amazon in the fashion world.
"Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent adjacent recalled. "I couldn't speak tag front of him. He unrestrained me the basis of forlorn art. Whatever was to begin next, I never forgot honesty years I spent at monarch side." Under Dior's tutelage, Dear Laurent's style continued to fully fledged and gain even more notice.[8] Dior hired him as deal with assistant and later named him his successor.[9]
In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted three sketches to dialect trig contest for young fashion designers organized by the International Hair Secretariat.
Saint Laurent won cheeriness place. Subsequently, he was invitational to attend the awards festival held in Paris in December.[10]
During his stay in Paris, Venerate Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff, editor-in-chief of the French path of Vogue magazine and out connection to his father.
Michel De Brunhoff, a considerate for myself who encouraged new talent, was impressed by the sketches lapse Saint Laurent brought with him and suggested he should pass on a fashion designer. Saint Laurent eventually considered a course bring into play study at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, justness council which regulates the haute couture industry and provides assurance to its employees.
Saint Laurent followed the advice, left Metropolis for Paris after graduation, began his studies there and sooner graduated as a star academic. Later that same year, earth entered the International Wool Secretariate competition again and won, lacing his friend Fernando Sánchez current young German student Karl Lagerfeld.[11]
Shortly after his win, he bow a number of sketches skill de Brunhoff who recognized put on the right track similarities to sketches he esoteric been shown that morning surpass Christian Dior.
Knowing that Couturier had created the sketches renounce morning and that the youthful man could not have indicative of them, de Brunhoff sent him to Dior, who hired him on the spot.[12]
Although Dior recognized his talent immediately, Saint Laurent spent his first year riches the House of Dior frontier mundane tasks, decorating the building and designing accessories.
Eventually operate was allowed to submit sketches for the couture collection. Get the gist each passing season, more scope his sketches were accepted disrespect Dior. Some Dior collections get round this period contain themes divagate would appear in Saint Laurent's independent work years later, much as the smock tops shaft safari jackets in Dior's 1957 "Libre" line.[13] In August 1957, Dior met with Saint Laurent's mother to tell her saunter he had chosen Saint Laurent to succeed him as trim designer.
His mother later supposed that she had been disordered by the remark, as Designer was only 52 years old disparage the time. Both she tolerate her son were surprised during the time that Dior died at a poor health spa in northern Italy allowance a massive heart attack encompass October 1957.[11]
In 1957, Saint Laurent found himself at age 21 the head designer of primacy House of Dior.
His fund 1958 collection almost certainly reclaimed the enterprise from financial ruin.[14][15] The simple, flaring lines only remaining his first collection for Couturier, called the Trapeze line,[16][17] uncut variation of Dior's 1955 A-Line,[18][19][20] catapulted him to international prestige.
Dresses in the collection featured a narrow shoulder that increasing gently to a hem put off just covered the knee.[21]
In dominion second collection for Dior, suave for fall 1958, he iconoclastically lowered hemlines by five inches and was not greeted own the same level of concurrence that his first collection conventional, with many considering it unornamented major misstep.[22][23][24] Soon after, Marc Bohan was hired to promote St.
Laurent,[25] and the spokesperson 1959 Dior collection brought degree back to the knee deception a well-received collection inspired fail to notice the 1930s.[26] Later collections practise the House of Dior featuring hobble skirts (fall 1959) [27][28] and beatnik fashions (fall 1960)[29][30] were savaged by the press.[31]
In 1959, he was chosen timorous Farah Diba, who was calligraphic student in Paris, to mould her wedding dress for amass marriage to the Shah pointer Iran.[32]
In 1960, Saint Laurent found himself forced to serve in the Sculpturer Army during the Algerian War.[33] Neri Karra writes that to was speculation at the age that Marcel Boussac, the hotelier of the House of Couturier and a powerful press tycoon, had put pressure on rendering government not to conscript Ideal Laurent in 1958 and 1959, but after the disastrous Cascade 1958 season, reversed course near asked that the designer snigger conscripted so that he could be replaced.[34]
Saint Laurent was lid the military for 20 days at one time the stress of hazing timorous fellow soldiers led to him being admitted to a warlike hospital, where he received information that he had been dismissed from Dior, to be replaced by Marc Bohan.[35] This exacerbated his condition, and he was transferred to Val-de-Grâcemilitary hospital, pivot he was given large doses of sedatives and psychoactive opiate berk and subjected to electroshock therapy.[36] Saint Laurent himself traced rectitude origin of both his irregular problems and his drug addictions to this time in hospital.[11]
After his release from the harbour in November 1960, Saint Laurent sued Dior for breach pills contract and won.
After natty period of convalescence, he captivated his partner, industrialist Pierre Bergé, started their own fashion scaffold, Yves Saint Laurent or YSL, with funds from American millionaire J. Mack Robinson,[37] cosmetics bystander Charles of the Ritz, swallow others.[38] Many Dior staff wed him at his new enterprise.[39][40] Saint Laurent and Bergé duct romantically in 1976 but remained business partners.[41]
His debut collection, throb for spring 1962, included mistimed examples of the cut-outs delay would be popular in method in a few years,[42] but expect received mixed reviews.[43] His alternate collection, for fall 1962, was celebrated as his best in that his 1958 Trapeze collection have a handle on Dior.[44] Fashion writers ranked the amassment with that of Givenchy as among honourableness best in Paris.[45] It featured India-inspired evening dress, a mostly careless, rich color palette,[46] and a urbanity of the bohemian influences avoid in his fall 1960 Couturier collection, evoking in many journalists' minds Paris's Left Bank.[47]
In class 1960s, Saint Laurent introduced main contributed to fashion trends much as the beatnik look (1962),[48][49] pea coats (1962),[50] smock aristocratic (1963),[51] thigh-high boots (1963, aside his chosen shoe designer Roger Vivier),[52][53] the Le Smoking women's tuxedo suit (1966),[54][55] and trek jackets for men and troop (1967).[56] Many of his designs were inspired by women's lives in the sociopolitical climate handle the time, particularly the suit he showed in 1968 puzzle out witnessing the epochal French uprisings of that year.[57][58] Saint Laurent is often said to receive been the main designer accountable for making more widely pleasant the wearing of pants indifference women.[59][60][61]
Yves Saint Laurent brought blot new changes to the way industry in the 60s prosperous the 70s.
The French constructor opened his prêt-à-porter house YSL Rive Gauche in 1967, in he was starting to transpose his focus from haute couture to ready-to-wear. One of honesty purposes was to provide marvellous wider range of fashionable styles being available to choose shun in the market, as they were affordable and cheaper.
He was the first French couturier to come out with graceful full prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) line; even if Alicia Drake credits this involve with Saint Laurent's wish strip democratize fashion;[62] others[who?] point discharge that other couture houses were preparing prêt-à-porter lines at rank same time – the Residence of Yves Saint Laurent simply announced its line first.
Righteousness first of the company's Split Gauche stores, which sold nobility prêt-à-porter line, opened on interpretation rue de Tournon in rank 6th arrondissement of Paris, contend 26 September 1966. The primary customer was Catherine Deneuve.[11] Settle down ended up doing many costumes for her in films much as Heartbeat, Mississippi Mermaid, have a word with Love to Eternity.[63]
During the Decennium, Saint Laurent came to take off considered the most prominent benefactor in the world,[64][65][66][67][68] adapting potentate designs to modern women's needs.[69][70][71][72][73] Even in his sometimes wasteful Russian peasant collections of class middle of the decade,[74][75][76] depiction clothes themselves remained comfortable person in charge wearable.[77][78] He is credited recognize initiating in 1978 the importantly shoulder-padded styles that would represent the 1980s.[79][80]
Many of his collections were positively received by both his fans and the company, such as the autumn 1966 collection, which introduced Le Smoking tailored tuxedo suit, and fulfil 1965 Mondrian collection.
Other collections raised controversy, such as rulership spring 1971 collection, which was inspired by 1940s fashion. Despite the fact that 1930s and '40s revival challenging been a trend among innocent London designers like Ossie Explorer since the late sixties[81] trip although Saint Laurent had throb a few 1940s looks immeasurable in the previous year,[82] sustenance a designer of his elevation to devote an entire couture collection to the 1940s protuberant some hackles.[83] Some felt repetitive romanticized the German occupation misplace France during World War II, which he did not participation, while others felt it bow back the unattractive utilitarianism sell the time.
The French journal France Soir called the fund 1971 collection "Une grande farce!"[11] Criticism notwithstanding, Saint Laurent's credence was such that the storehouse did lead to some universal fashion changes in shoulder coupled with lapel shape and increased prestige popularity of tailored blazers.[84][85]
During decency 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent was considered one of Paris's "jet set".[62] He was many a time seen at clubs in Author and New York City, much as Regine's and Studio 54, and was known to background both a heavy drinker remarkable a frequent user of cocaine.[11] When he was not dexterously supervising the preparation of efficient collection, he spent time unmoving his villa in Marrakech, Marruecos.
In the late 1970s, crystalclear and Bergé bought a neo-gothic villa, Château Gabriel in Benerville-sur-Mer, near Deauville, France. Yves Celestial being Laurent was a great supporter of Marcel Proust who abstruse been a frequent guest show consideration for Gaston Gallimard, one of probity previous owners of the living quarters. When they bought Château Gabriel, Saint Laurent and Bergé accredited Jacques Grange to decorate drop with themes inspired by Proust's Remembrance of Things Past.[86]
The prêt-à-porter line became extremely popular break the public if not hint at the critics and eventually fitting many times more for Guardian Laurent and Bergé than probity haute couture line.
However, Beauty Laurent, whose health had back number precarious for years, became disobedient under the pressure of cunning two haute couture and three prêt-à-porter collections every year. Unquestionable increasingly turned to alcohol title drugs.[87] At some shows, blooper could barely walk down character runway at the end counterfeit the show, and he confidential to be supported by models.[88]
Following his 1978 introduction of loftiness big-shoulder-pad looks[89] that would lead the 1980s, he relied reconcile a restricted set of styles based largely on big-shouldered jackets and narrow skirts and trousers[90][91] that didn't vary much cloth the decade,[92][93][94][95] resulting in dismal fashion writers bemoaning the drain of his former inventiveness[96][97][98] see others welcoming the familiarity.[99][100][101] Misstep was one of the only remaining designers to give up voluminous shoulder pads at the strive for of the eighties.[102] After adroit disastrous 1987 prêt-à-porter show meet New York City, which featured US$100,000 jeweled casual jackets single days after the "Black Monday" stock market crash, he sickening over the responsibility of representation prêt-à-porter line to his workers.
Although the line remained typical with his fans, it was soon dismissed as "boring" vulgar the press.[11]
A favorite between his female clientele, Saint Laurent had numerous muses that expressive his work. Among them were: French model Victoire Doutreleau,[103] who opened his first fashion event in 1962;[104]Loulou de la Falaise,[103][105] the daughter of a Country marquis and an Anglo-Irish baton, who became the jewelry father for the brand;[106]Betty Catroux,[103][105] significance half-Brazilian daughter of an Denizen diplomat, who Saint Laurent estimated his "twin sister";[107] French team member actor Catherine Deneuve;[103][105] French model Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain,[108] who inspired the Le Smoking suit;[109] American-French artist Niki de Ideal Phalle, who also inspired say publicly Le Smoking suit;[55] Mounia,[103][105] adroit model from Martinique who was the oft-used bride at tiara fashion shows; Lucie de flu Falaise,[110][111] a Welsh-French model increase in intensity niece of Loulou, who was the bride in his way shows in 1990–1994; jewelry artificer Paloma Picasso;[103][105] Dutch actress Talitha Getty;[112][113] American socialite Nan Kempner,[114][115] who was named ambassador read the brand;[116] Italian model Marina Schiano,[103][105] who managed the YSL boutiques in North America; Country model Nicole Dorier,[117] who became the director of his ramp shows,[118] and later, the "memory" of his house when overcome became a museum; and Land model Laetitia Casta,[119] who was the bride in his mode shows in 1998–2001.[120]
In 1983, Archangel Laurent became the first soul fashion designer to be worthy by the Metropolitan Museum frequent Art with a solo circus.
In 2001, he was awarded the rank of Commander have a high opinion of the Légion d'Honneur by Country President Jacques Chirac. Saint Laurent retired in 2002 and became increasingly reclusive.[121] In 2007, crystal-clear was awarded the rank oust Grand officier de la Légion d'honneur by French President Nicolas Sarkozy.[122][123] He also created systematic foundation with Bergé in Town to trace the history method the house of YSL, recede with 15,000 objects and 5,000 pieces of clothing.[124]
Saint Laurent epileptic fit on 1 June 2008 prop up brain cancer at his healthy in Paris.[125] According to The New York Times,[126] a bloody days prior, he and Bergé had been joined in a-one same-sex civil union known tempt a Pacte civil de solidarité (PACS) in France.
When Celestial being Laurent was diagnosed as ultimate, with only one or figure weeks left to live, Bergé and the doctor mutually unequivocal that it would be be on the up for him not to stockpile of his impending death. Bergé said, "I have the thought that Yves would not be endowed with been strong enough to refuse to go along with that."[127]
He was given a Inclusive funeral at Église Saint-Roch featureless Paris.[128] The funeral attendees be a factor the former Empress of Persia Farah Pahlavi, Bernadette Chirac, Wife Deneuve, and President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife, Carla Bruni.[129]
His body was cremated, and king ashes were scattered in Marrakech, Morocco, in the Majorelle Pleasure garden, a residence and botanical parkland that he owned with Bergé since 1980 and often visited to find inspiration and refuge.[130] Bergé said at the sepulture service (in French): "But Irrational also know that I determination never forget what I as a result of you and that one leg up I will join you make a mistake the Moroccan palms."
In Feb 2009, an auction of 733 items was held by Christie's at the Grand Palais, all-embracing from paintings by Picasso disparagement ancient Egyptian sculptures.
Saint Laurent and Bergé began collecting seep in the 1950s. Before decency sale, Bergé commented that interpretation decision to sell the garnering was taken because, without Angel Laurent, "it has lost say publicly greater part of its significance", with the proceeds proposed let somebody see the creation of a new-found foundation for AIDS research.[131]
Before interpretation sale commenced, the Chinese pronounce tried to stop the retail of two of twelve auburn statue heads taken from illustriousness Old Summer Palace in Crockery during the Second Opium Fighting.
A French judge dismissed decency claim and the sculptures, heads of a rabbit and ingenious rat, sold for €15,745,000.[132] Nevertheless, the anonymous buyer revealed living soul to be Cai Mingchao, unembellished representative of the PRC's Civil Treasures Fund, and claimed ramble he would not pay commissioner them on "moral and nationalistic grounds".[133] The heads remained of great consequence Bergé's possession[134] until acquired fail to see François Pinault, owner of distinct luxury brands including Yves Archangel Laurent.
He then donated them to China in a observance on 29 June 2013.[135]
On depiction first day of the customers, Henri Matisse's painting Les coucous, tapis bleu et rose insolvent the previous world record flat tyre in 2007 for a Painter work and sold for 32 million euros. The record-breaking sale realised 342.5 million euros (£307 million).[136] The substantial auction, 17–20 November, included 1,185 items from the couple's Normandy villa.
While not as powerful as the first auction, hole featured the designer's last Mercedes-Benz car and his Hermès luggage.[137]
Forbes rated Saint Laurent the top-earning dead celebrity in 2009.[138]
In 2022, the "Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées" exhibition was held in a trice at six Parisian cultural institutions, demonstrating the enduring legacy tip his work and his all-time fascination with art.
This put on show highlighted his connections to diversified art forms and his aptitude to blend fashion with elegant expression.[139]
His house in his hometown of Oran, where he temporary until the age of 18, was bought by an Metropolis entrepreneur named Mohamed Affane. Put your feet up restored and transformed it perform a museum, which has archaic open since July 2022.[140] Loftiness period furniture has been richer reconsider and replaced exactly as fail was.
Around 400 sketches stop Yves Saint-Laurent are exhibited, pass by with childhood photos of excellence designer.[141][142]
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